No Surf, But Great View

 

 

Yes, it's that time of year. During the dog days of summer, when Paris is practically empty anyway, and a surprising number of Parisians are off at their country homes, those of us who are left get to sun ourselves on a one-kilometer-long Right Bank beach smack in the center of Paris for four weeks, from today through August 18.

The city closes the Voie Georges Pompidou on the Seine at water level to vehicle traffic, trucks in tons of biscuit-colored beach sand, and erects beach umbrellas and chaise longues. It provides foosball games (called "baby foot" over here) and refreshment stands, and small pavilions for tai chi lessons and dancing. There's street art, too, in the form of commissioned (and impromptu) sand sculptures. We all hum "Surfin' U.S.A" and "Help Me, Rhonda" as we loll about in our jams and bikinis (huarache sandals, too).

This is the twelfth year of the Paris Plage program, and, even when it rains, it's a popular family outing. There is a satellite plage at Porte de la Villette in the 19th arrondissement, but the main stage is definitely in the shadow of Hotel de Ville.