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<!--Generated by Squarespace V5 Site Server v5.13.594-SNAPSHOT-1 (http://www.squarespace.com) on Mon, 14 Sep 2026 15:24:15 GMT--><rss xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/" xmlns:wfw="http://wellformedweb.org/CommentAPI/" xmlns:itunes="http://www.itunes.com/dtds/podcast-1.0.dtd" xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/" version="2.0"><channel><title>Journal</title><link>http://www.parisplay.com/journal/</link><description></description><lastBuildDate>Sun, 03 Sep 2017 19:56:03 +0000</lastBuildDate><copyright></copyright><language>en-US</language><generator>Squarespace V5 Site Server v5.13.594-SNAPSHOT-1 (http://www.squarespace.com)</generator><item><title>Moment of Ecstasy</title><category>Jean-Raphaël Gilis www.jrgilis.com</category><category>Louis Zukovsky</category><category>Moon</category><category>Paris summer</category><category>Robert Ward</category><category>Shakespeare and Company</category><category>ecstasy</category><category>lapin</category><category>planets</category><category>swans</category><dc:creator>Kaaren Kitchell &amp;amp; Richard Beban</dc:creator><pubDate>Sun, 03 Sep 2017 11:11:31 +0000</pubDate><link>http://www.parisplay.com/journal/2017/9/3/moment-of-ecstasy.html</link><guid isPermaLink="false">807002:9471938:35963529</guid><description><![CDATA[<div><span class="full-image-block ssNonEditable"><span><img src="http://www.parisplay.com/storage/moon.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1504451548717" alt="" /></span><span class="thumbnail-caption" style="width: 421px;">iPhone photo by Kaaren Kitchell</span></span></div>
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<p><img id="editor-script-1" src="http://www.parisplay.com/universal/images/manager/wysiwyg-script.png" alt="" /></p>
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<p>I left Shakespeare and Company with two books I&rsquo;d ordered, Louis Zukovsky&rsquo;s epic poem, &ldquo;A,&rdquo; and Robert Ward&rsquo;s novel about the Sixties, &ldquo;Shedding Skin.&rdquo;</p>
<p>Should I go back to my studio now to write, or to a caf&eacute;? Something tugged on me in the direction of the latter.</p>
<p>I took the most beautiful route, along the south side of Notre Dame. The gargoyles glared down; I&rsquo;ve heard they need repairing. The proportions of the trees against river and sky was&hellip; perfect.</p>
<p>In the park named for a pope, I looked up to see a sky smoky with clouds and the waxing gibbous moon, which seemed to be directly above our apartment to the south.</p>
<p>On the Pont St.-Louis, I remembered a stanza of a poem I&rsquo;d written about my mother&rsquo;s&nbsp;visit to Paris:</p>
<p style="padding-left: 30px;">Here, the Pont Saint-Louis where</p>
<p style="padding-left: 30px;">police tortured a gypsy for a crime,</p>
<p style="padding-left: 30px;">so her mother cursed the bridge&mdash;</p>
<p style="padding-left: 30px;">it crumbled seven times.</p>
<p><br /> And then I spotted swans. Six swans, with seventeen ducks nearby. I hadn&rsquo;t seen swans on the Seine in a while.<br /> <br /> All I wanted at the caf&eacute; was a hot chocolate. Maybe the waitress disapproved&mdash;not much of an order&mdash;since she promptly forgot it. I reminded her, sipped and read and wrote, and left the caf&eacute; at 9:30 back across the Pont St.-Louis.</p>
<p>There in the middle of the bridge was a man singing, in front of him a telescope with a sign, &ldquo;Regardez Les Crat&egrave;res de la Lune.&rdquo;&nbsp;</p>
<p>How much? I asked.</p>
<p>Whatever you want to donate, he said.<br /> <br /> He aimed the telescope; I leaned down. The image was so close I felt as if I could leap onto the moon. The craters on the right side were more pronounced and numerous than on the left.</p>
<p>That&rsquo;s because the line between day and night is strongest on the right side, he said.</p>
<p>Of course! The moon has her days and nights, just as we do, depending on where the sun is shining his light on her.</p>
<p>Two French men came dashing up and brushed cheeks with the man offering the moon.</p>
<p>They introduced themselves. Nicolas and Charlie, and the moon man was Jean-Raphael.</p>
<p>Voyez-vous une femme chantant &agrave; pleine voix, ou un lapin dans la lune? I asked.</p>
<p>Un lapin! they said.</p>
<p>Naturally, rabbits being one of Aphrodite&rsquo;s creatures, like Paris herself and the French.&nbsp;</p>
<p>You can see Saturn and her rings, too, said Jean-Raphael.</p>
<p>I peered into the telescope. Nothing. Again. Nothing. And then, there it was, tiny, ringed, a bright dot just to the right of the moon.</p>
<p>I looked up and had that sense of standing in eternity: three men and I paying homage to the Moon and Saturn from the Pont St.-Louis with the Seine and swans below on one of the last warm nights of summer in Paris: a moment of ecstasy!</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
</div>]]></description><wfw:commentRss>http://www.parisplay.com/journal/rss-comments-entry-35963529.xml</wfw:commentRss></item><item><title>Points of Interest</title><category>Heimark family</category><category>Henri IV</category><category>Honfleur</category><category>Normandie</category><category>Paris Life</category><category>ethnic groups</category><category>family</category><category>travel</category><dc:creator>Kaaren Kitchell &amp;amp; Richard Beban</dc:creator><pubDate>Sun, 02 Oct 2016 18:56:33 +0000</pubDate><link>http://www.parisplay.com/journal/2016/10/2/points-of-interest.html</link><guid isPermaLink="false">807002:9471938:35783437</guid><description><![CDATA[<p><span class="full-image-block ssNonEditable"><span><img src="http://www.parisplay.com/storage/Honfleur 1 of 11.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1475504729190" alt="" /></span></span></p>
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<p>We used to play a game in Berkeley called Points of Interest. You opened old books and magazines and circled with a magic marker little details of whatever caught your eye. Richard and I will approach our past weekend in Honfleur, on the Normandie coast, by playing this game.</p>
<p>We arrive in Le Havre by train from Paris at two on a Friday and find that Avis, the only rental car company in town, is closed from noon to 4 p.m. Seriously? Can you imagine such a lack of entrepreneurial spirit in any major U.S. city?</p>
<p>On the drive to Honfleur, our Moroccan-French cab driver tells us about places to visit in Morocco, and about the anti-terrorist security there, more rigorous than in France. Just what we need to hear to make that trip.</p>
<p>At the top of our building on rue Lucie Delarue Mardus we find our Airbnb apartment:</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><span class="full-image-block ssNonEditable"><span><img src="http://www.parisplay.com/storage/Honfleur 10 of 11.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1475504779585" alt="" /></span></span></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>Green hills rise to the south, the mouth of the Seine to the north.</p>
<p>The Pont de Normandie spanning the Seine with its spider web pattern, mirrored by three delicate spider weavings outside the windows to the south.</p>
<p>What a pleasing sense of color the owner, <a href="https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/9361780?eluid=1&amp;euid=a4bbb9da-ed8b-3517-1ff3-49154258ed36">Beatrice</a>, has!</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><span class="full-image-block ssNonEditable"><span><img style="width: 680px;" src="http://www.parisplay.com/storage/FullSizeRender copy.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1475505263313" alt="" /></span></span>&nbsp;</p>
<p>Celery green, a color I&rsquo;d never think to use on kitchen walls, echoed in the couch, splashes of red and bright patterns on the throw pillows.</p>
<p>Look at the array of colors in the scissors and knife handles.</p>
<p>A basket of talking sticks, or&mdash;what are they?</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><span class="full-image-block ssNonEditable"><span><img src="http://www.parisplay.com/storage/Honfleur 11 of 11.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1475505309234" alt="" /></span></span></p>
<p>A meander around town looking for a restaurant open at 5 pm. Snacks, yes, but we&rsquo;re in France. Most open at 7 p.m. We settle for galettes.</p>
<p>A visit to friends in the country. Donkeys, white horses, fields of long-legged stallions.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><span class="full-image-block ssNonEditable"><span><img style="width: 680px;" src="http://www.parisplay.com/storage/Honfleur 4 of 11.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1475505415005" alt="" /></span></span></p>
<p>A cab driver who slows down, warns of boars crossing the road.&nbsp; I remember the scene in the film &ldquo;La Reine Margot&rdquo; where King Charles IX&rsquo;s treacherous brother, the Duke of Anjou, lures him on a boar hunt in the forest where he is left to die from a ravaging boar, before his friend, the future Henri IV, comes to his rescue.</p>
<p>A long conversation with Richard about one of the wellsprings of his latest struggle with paralyzing depression: disappointment at not having mastered French in his last course at the Sorbonne, or the one before that at Alliance Fran&ccedil;aise, or the five years of daily attempts at conversation.</p>
<p>How hard on yourself you are! Let&rsquo;s approach learning French like children, who only want to connect! Let&rsquo;s approach it like buddhas and laugh at ourselves! Let&rsquo;s be surrealists and speak French, Spanish and English all at once, as Salvador Dali and our friend Jane Eliot did over dinner! We decide to take an immersion course together.<strong> </strong></p>
<p>Reading a memoir that my friend Diane lent me, <em>A Woman in Berlin</em>, about the last months of World War II in Berlin, when German women were raped multiple times a day by Russian soldiers, written anonymously because the shame and repression of returning German soldiers was so profound. An eloquent document about the cost of war.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><span class="full-image-block ssNonEditable"><span><img style="width: 680px;" src="http://www.parisplay.com/storage/Honfleur 3 of 11.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1475505476659" alt="" /></span></span></p>
<p>Richard is reading <em>Swerve; How the World Became Modern</em> by Stephen Greenblatt about the effect the poet Lucretius had on the Enlightenment, on Renaissance artists, and on my beloved Montaigne.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><span class="full-image-block ssNonEditable"><span><img style="width: 680px;" src="http://www.parisplay.com/storage/Honfleur 2 of 11.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1475505555272" alt="" /></span></span></p>
<p>Fl&acirc;neuring around town together and seeing a wedding outside the oldest wooden church in France, l&rsquo;&Eacute;glise Sainte-Catherine, its bell tower in a separate building so the parishioners wouldn&rsquo;t perish in case of a fire if it was struck by lightning.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><span class="full-image-block ssNonEditable"><span><img src="http://www.parisplay.com/storage/Honfleur 8 of 11.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1475505652777" alt="" /></span></span></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>The town reminds me of Bergen from which my maternal ancestors left for America during the mid-nineteenth century.</p>
<p>Small white gulls swooping above the harbor, making me think of my sister, Jane.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><span class="full-image-block ssNonEditable"><span><img src="http://www.parisplay.com/storage/Honfleur 7 of 11.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1475505707413" alt="" /></span></span></p>
<p>Handsome schooners lining the Vieux Bassin&mdash;memories of my years living on a schooner, as cook.</p>
<p>A sullen North African-looking man on a motorbike, with boom box blasting hostile rap. I give him a thumb&rsquo;s up and he flashes a bashful grin.</p>
<p>Picking L&rsquo;Hippocampe for dinner, and savoring a plate of <em>choucroute</em> with every kind of seafood: salmon, cabillaud, bream, langoustine, mussels, shrimp.</p>
<p>Richard urging me to write about my years on The Flying Cloud, the characters packed in, ten to the schooner, the groupies the single men attracted, the famous rock singers moored nearby in Lido Shipyard and Catalina Island, the stress for an introvert of communal living, dawning feminist awareness.</p>
<p>Struck by the mythical resonance of the seahorse, the hippocampe, one of Poseidon&rsquo;s emblems, and our talk about a story of the sea.&nbsp;</p>
<p>The English man and woman at the next table who strike up a conversation with me when Richard leaves the table for a moment after dinner. The Englishman is a weight lifter, who cheers the Brexit decision, says he didn&rsquo;t like NYC because there were &ldquo;too many foreigners there.&rdquo; Code for racism, which Richard catches on his return, and refuses to engage in, walking out of the restaurant to go photograph the port at night.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><span class="full-image-block ssNonEditable"><span><img src="http://www.parisplay.com/storage/Honfleur 9 of 11.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1475505747574" alt="" /></span></span></p>
<p><em>L&rsquo;esprit d&rsquo;escalier</em>: the too-late comeback that occurs to you on the staircase after you leave: <em>You mean a foreigner like you?</em> <em>Everyone in America is a foreigner except Native Americans</em>.</p>
<p>Glimpses of the Seine to our left on the train back to Paris. One white swan. An egret.</p>
<p>The big-bellied train conductor, to whom we offer some Algerian Deglet Nour dates and two kinds of cheese. He turns up his nose. &ldquo;I only eat fresh Medjool dates,&rdquo; he says. &ldquo;That cheese,&rdquo; he says, pointing to Richard&rsquo;s, &ldquo;is industrial cheese. But the Camembert looks good.&rdquo; Ah, these wonderful discerning French, experts in all matters of taste.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><span class="full-image-block ssNonEditable"><span><img style="width: 680px;" src="http://www.parisplay.com/storage/Honfleur 5 of 11.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1475505809513" alt="" /></span></span></p>]]></description><wfw:commentRss>http://www.parisplay.com/journal/rss-comments-entry-35783437.xml</wfw:commentRss></item><item><title>Elements of Ecstasy, a Five Year Update</title><category>David St. John</category><category>Edith Wharton</category><category>Paris</category><category>Paris Life</category><category>cafes</category><category>cats</category><category>literature</category><category>psychology</category><category>waiters</category><dc:creator>Kaaren Kitchell &amp;amp; Richard Beban</dc:creator><pubDate>Mon, 01 Feb 2016 20:43:58 +0000</pubDate><link>http://www.parisplay.com/journal/2016/2/1/elements-of-ecstasy-a-five-year-update.html</link><guid isPermaLink="false">807002:9471938:35599876</guid><description><![CDATA[<p><!-- AddThis Button BEGIN --></p>
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<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><span class="full-image-block ssNonEditable"><img src="http://www.parisplay.com/storage/Five year 5 of 16.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1454417743567" alt="" /></span></p>
<p>Take a big question of your life: Why are my sleep hours so crazy? Bring it to a specialist.</p>
<p>You love everything about her: her strong nose, her mood balanced between caring and taking care of business, her beaded scarf on black jacket, the sparkle of Arabian Nights in the consultation room. &nbsp;&nbsp;</p>
<p>You have one hour to tell her your entire psychological and medical history, and you do so in French. She gives you a recipe for change.</p>
<p><span>You join your adored husband on Boulevard du Montparnasse where he&rsquo;s taking photos near La Closerie des Lilas.</span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: 12px;"><br /></span></p>
<p><span class="full-image-block ssNonEditable"><img src="http://www.parisplay.com/storage/Five year 7 of 16.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1454417804923" alt="" /></span></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><span>Arm in arm you walk through the curving paths, the sheltering trees, the thwock of tennis balls, the elegance of chess in the Jardin du Luxembourg.</span></p>
<p><span>&ldquo;Have you ever given up something you were good at?&rdquo; he asks.</span></p>
<p><span>&ldquo;Yes,&rdquo; I say. &ldquo;Have you?&rdquo;</span></p>
<p><span>&ldquo;Chess,&rdquo; he says.</span></p>
<p><span>&ldquo;Why?&rdquo;</span></p>
<p><span>&ldquo;I was pretty good when I was six years old. But my mother brought me late to an important city tournament. Now I don&rsquo;t remember how to play.&rdquo;</span></p>
<p><span>&ldquo;Oh, my darling, my lateness must drive you nuts.&rdquo;</span></p>
<p><span>&ldquo;It&rsquo;s better now,&rdquo; he says. &ldquo;Ten minutes, that's Paris time&hellip;. How about you?&rdquo;</span></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><span class="full-image-block ssNonEditable"><img src="http://www.parisplay.com/storage/Five year 15 of 16.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1454417907223" alt="" /><span class="thumbnail-caption" style="width: 679px;">Street art &copy; 2016 by Pole Ka</span></span></p>
<p><span>&ldquo;I was good at reading Tarot,&rdquo; I say. &ldquo;But I didn&rsquo;t like the way some people projected guru nonsense on me.&rdquo; <br /></span></p>
<p><span>We walk across Paris to Simrane. The January sales! We each have a throw pillow cover in our bags, shredded by our <em style="font-size: 12px;">chatons</em>. We want the jewel colors (van Gogh), not the milky impressionist ones (Monet), or the newer fluorescents. We find replacements.</span></p>
<p><span>At Le Pr&eacute; Aux Clercs, we take an alcove table. I glance in the mirror. Where did that lost girl go who was so besieged by men she could barely think? She&rsquo;s now a woman (mostly) at home in her body and soul, no longer pursued, but captured, captivated by this man across from her, a man who knows how to listen, a man who is thrilled by many of the same things that thrill her, and who himself thrills her still, who, like her,<strong style="font-size: 12px;"> </strong>appreciates the waiter, attentive but reserved, unobtrusive but present, and who brings to this intimate nook perfectly cooked <em style="font-size: 12px;">saumon et l&eacute;gumes</em> for her, and <em style="font-size: 12px;">salade de tomates et Mozzarella</em> <em style="font-size: 12px;">et soupe a l&rsquo;oignon </em>for him.</span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: 12px;"><br /></span></p>
<p><span class="full-image-block ssNonEditable"><img src="http://www.parisplay.com/storage/Five year 6 of 16.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1454418037532" alt="" /><span class="thumbnail-caption" style="width: 679px;">Paris waiters</span></span></p>
<p><span>It&rsquo;s the five-year anniversary of our living in Paris. We click our <em style="font-size: 12px;">cafes cr&egrave;mes</em>, talk of how the refugee crisis is affecting Europe, and what we can do to help. Let&rsquo;s ask friends on Facebook, that world-wide forum of brilliance and idiocy.</span></p>
<p><span>Down rue Jacob we go. The waiter flies after us with a glove one of us dropped. I&rsquo;m dizzy with the beauty of the displays in every <em>vitrine</em>. Remember Jung&rsquo;s words about the Door to the Divine for us intuitive types: sensory beauty. Oh yes it is. Here is a shop I&rsquo;ve never seen with Navajo and Mexican-printed patterns of sweaters and skirts.</span></p>
<p><span>I dart in, find the scarf I&rsquo;ve been looking for, but he&rsquo;s waiting on the sidewalk, I don&rsquo;t want to hold him up.</span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: 12px;"><br /></span></p>
<p><span class="full-image-block ssNonEditable"><img src="http://www.parisplay.com/storage/Five year 14 of 16.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1454418103384" alt="" /><span class="thumbnail-caption" style="width: 680px;">Street art &copy; 2016 by Konny Steding<span style="font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12px;">&nbsp;</span></span></span></p>
<p><span>We meander up rue de Seine. There on the corner of rue de Buci is a new street art paste-up. He stops to take a photo. &ldquo;I know you hate to backtrack,&rdquo; I say, &ldquo;but we&rsquo;re here &amp; the sales are on &amp; I hate to shop &amp; may not want to come back &amp; I&rsquo;d really like to try on this scarf &amp; you say yes or no.&rdquo; I don&rsquo;t need his permission, but he knows what suits me. Back we go. &ldquo;Yes,&rdquo; he says. And it&rsquo;s half off.</span></p>
<p><span>Down rue Saint-Andr&eacute;-des-Arts to Starbucks for beans. An unhappy French girl at the counter. I see why when her male colleague orders her around, micromanaging her.</span></p>
<p><span>We switch him over from English to French, and chat with the girl. By the time we leave, she&rsquo;s cheerful.</span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: 12px;"><br /></span></p>
<p><span class="full-image-block ssNonEditable"><img src="http://www.parisplay.com/storage/Five year 12 of 16.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1454418188562" alt="" /></span></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><span>At our favorite Alice in Wonderland bookstore, I buy <em>The Cultural Lives of Whales and Dolphins</em>, and Edith Wharton&rsquo;s <em>Ethan Frome, </em>a novel that helped me get accepted early to college, when I wrote an essay about A Book I Hated.</span></p>
<p><span>I wonder why at age 17 I hated it so. Will re-reading it bring back the time, for a fictional story I&rsquo;m writing?</span></p>
<p><span>At home <em style="font-size: 12px;">les chatons </em>greet us, with vomit on the rug and purrs. Lift it off, soak it with bubbly water. Move our two couches close together facing each other to create a square enclosure and, voila! <em style="font-size: 12px;">le crat&egrave;re de l&rsquo;amour</em>.&nbsp;</span></p>
<p><span>We lie together (no, not &ldquo;lay,&rdquo; you writers who keep posting variations of &ldquo;I was laying on the bed&rdquo;) against pillows, reading. <em>Ethan Frome</em>: the first chapter is clotted prose. Then the characters of Ethan, Zeena and Mattie in a small village in western Massachusetts envelop me with their tragic tale.</span></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><span class="full-image-block ssNonEditable"><img src="http://www.parisplay.com/storage/Five year 3 of 16.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1454418251609" alt="" /></span>&nbsp;</p>
<p>It is grim. Hopeless. And rather unimaginative. Sometimes the dialogue between Ethan and Mattie seems melodramatic. I wonder how much experience of love Edith Wharton had. &ldquo;Oh Mattie.&rdquo; &ldquo;Oh, oh, Ethan.&rdquo; &ldquo;Oh, oh, oh, Mattie.&rdquo; &ldquo;Oh, oh, oh, oh, Ethan.&rdquo;<span style="font-size: 12px;">&nbsp;</span></p>
<p>And then they try to kill themselves.</p>
<p>Surely even these stunted lives have a few moments of joy besides the first blush of falling in love. But man, can she write about weather.<span style="font-size: 12px;">&nbsp;</span></p>
<p>In an essay at the back of the book, Lorna Sage writes, &ldquo;Edith Wharton got to know the kind of dead-alive New England hamlets she is describing by taking excursions in her chauffeur-driven motor car.&hellip; One should dwell a little on this image of Wharton touring the territory of her tragedy &ndash; a woman of enormous energy, wealth and creative curiosity finding her subject in the &lsquo;insanity, incest and slow mental and moral starvation&rsquo; of the near-extinct inhabitants she observed on her travels. The contrast between Wharton and her subject could not be more striking.&rdquo;<span style="font-size: 12px;">&nbsp;</span></p>
<p>She wrote this novella in French while living in Paris, then with ease, a second time, in English. That might explain that first congested chapter.<span style="font-size: 12px;">&nbsp;</span></p>
<p>In <em>A Backward Glance, </em>Wharton wrote, &ldquo;From the first I know exactly what is going to happen to every one of them; their fate is settled beyond rescue, and I have but to watch and record.&rdquo; Control freak much? Don&rsquo;t her characters ever surprise her?</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><span class="full-image-block ssNonEditable"><img src="http://www.parisplay.com/storage/Five year 1 of 16.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1454418365731" alt="" /><span class="thumbnail-caption" style="width: 680px;">Pollux (top) and Castor</span></span>&nbsp;</p>
<p><em>Les chatons</em> nestle against us, Pollux on Richard&rsquo;s head, giving him a tongue shampoo, Castor burrowed close to my feet. Hyper-active Pollux has been taking a natural tranquillizer given him by our vet, and it&rsquo;s making him mellow enough to <span style="text-decoration: line-through;">lay</span> lie down with us, calmly at times.</p>
<p>Later, I check e-mail and find on Poem-a-Day a poem by our friend and mentor, David St. John. <a href="https://www.poets.org/poetsorg/poem/alexandr-blok">https://www.poets.org/poetsorg/poem/alexandr-blok</a>&nbsp; Yes, there it is: the ecstatic sensibility I&rsquo;ve always loved in his poems. The passion for subtle intellect and sensual beauty that Paris embodies. It&rsquo;s why we love his poems, and him. And why we love this city.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><span class="full-image-block ssNonEditable"><img src="http://www.parisplay.com/storage/Five year 4 of 16.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1454418404694" alt="" /></span></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>]]></description><wfw:commentRss>http://www.parisplay.com/journal/rss-comments-entry-35599876.xml</wfw:commentRss></item><item><title>The Artist's Mother</title><category>Combo Culture Kidnapper</category><category>Morocco</category><category>Paris Life</category><category>mothers</category><category>street art</category><category>terrorism</category><dc:creator>Kaaren Kitchell &amp;amp; Richard Beban</dc:creator><pubDate>Fri, 08 Jan 2016 00:08:21 +0000</pubDate><link>http://www.parisplay.com/journal/2016/1/8/the-artists-mother.html</link><guid isPermaLink="false">807002:9471938:35578500</guid><description><![CDATA[<p>&nbsp;</p>
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<p><span>After Thom-Thom gave us our weekly French lesson, we three took the M&egrave;tro from the Latin Quarter to an art gallery near L&rsquo;Op&eacute;ra.&nbsp;</span></p>
<p>We walked through a dark courtyard, Thom-Thom, Richard and I. Everyone held a drink, or was smoking. Tonight I didn&rsquo;t want a drink, I only wanted to see Combo Culture Kidnapper&rsquo;s art. He's a tall, bearded street artist we've covered four times before, in <a href="https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.849630151788789.1073741894.438684579550017&amp;type=3&amp;hc_location=ufi">Facebook posts</a>, whose "Co-exist" campaign in the wake of the Charlie Hebdo massacres was embraced by Parisians of all religions and backgrounds.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><span class="full-image-block ssNonEditable"><span><img src="http://www.parisplay.com/storage/Combo%202%20of%209.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1452219177871" alt="" /></span><span class="thumbnail-caption" style="width: 679px;">Artwork &copy; 2016 Combo Culture Kidnapper</span></span></p>
<p><span><br />The gallery was small, beautifully lit, with every wall featuring his work. There were at least five or six different styles of portraits of men and women. Every once in a while you see an exhibition in which you love everything, and this was one. But what I loved most were three drawings of "terrorists" based on Star Wars Jedi: a Christian, a Muslim, and a Jew. In these three drawings, Culture Combo addressed the recent terrorist acts around the world with the most potent weapon: humor. But not divisive humor, unifying humor, cross-cultural humor. He himself straddles different cultures; his father is Lebanese Christian; his mother Moroccan Muslim, and he is French.&nbsp;</span></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><span style="font-size: 12px;"><span class="full-image-block ssNonEditable"><span><img src="http://www.parisplay.com/storage/Combo%203%20of%209.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1452219192813" alt="" /></span><span class="thumbnail-caption" style="width: 680px;">Artwork &copy; 2016 Combo Culture Kidnapper</span></span>&nbsp;</span></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><span class="full-image-block ssNonEditable"><span><img src="http://www.parisplay.com/storage/Combo%204%20of%209.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1452219208023" alt="" /></span><span class="thumbnail-caption" style="width: 680px;">Artwork &copy; 2016 Combo Culture Kidnapper</span></span></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><span class="full-image-block ssNonEditable"><span><img src="http://www.parisplay.com/storage/Combo%205%20of%209.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1452219222577" alt="" /></span><span class="thumbnail-caption" style="width: 680px;">Artwork &copy; 2016 Combo Culture Kidnapper</span></span></p>
<p><span>I saw a woman with long dark hair and a beautiful presence, seated in a leather chair in one corner of the room. I asked her if this was her art gallery. Non, she said, she was the mother of the artist. I told her what I thought of her son&rsquo;s work. She complimented me on my French.</span></p>
<p><span>A friend of hers joined us. We talked a bit, and I learned that she was a former flamenco dancer, and now a psychologist and hypnotist. Hypnosis, she says, is a creative process. It helps to be an artist. It&rsquo;s a dialogue between you and the patient. You have to be able to imagine yourself within another&rsquo;s mind. It sounds like writing, I say, like getting into the heads of your characters. Yes, she said, and she&rsquo;d always wanted to write. Then you must do so, I said. One of these days she might. And why not now? I asked.</span></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><span><span class="full-image-block ssNonEditable"><span><img src="http://www.parisplay.com/storage/Combo%201%20of%209.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1452219234996" alt="" /></span><span class="thumbnail-caption" style="width: 679px;">Artwork &copy; 2016 Combo Culture Kidnapper</span></span><br /></span></p>
<p><span>She asked me if I&rsquo;d ever been to Morocco. &ldquo;No,&rdquo; I said. &ldquo;We were about to go last year, when the first terrorist acts were committed in Paris. We decided not to go, because we&rsquo;re Americans. Since Bush in 2001, our government's policies toward the Muslim world have put a target on our backs.&rdquo;</span></p>
<p>&ldquo;<em>Non</em>,&rdquo; she said, and her friend agreed, &ldquo;Morocco is safe for Americans. It&rsquo;s well-secured. The Moroccan police helped the French after the terrorist attacks.&rdquo;</p>
<p><span>Richard approached and snapped more photos, and we discussed the safety of Morocco with him. And then Combo came over. I repeated what I&rsquo;d said to his mother about the power of humor to dissolve hatred. She corrected my pronunciation (because I&rsquo;d said I didn&rsquo;t want to speak English, I wanted to master French). &ldquo;<em style="font-size: 12px;">L&rsquo;humour</em> sounds like <em style="font-size: 12px;">l&rsquo;amour</em>,&rdquo; she said. Oh yes, I&rsquo;ve made that mistake before. It was hard to wrap my tongue around the word when it followed the &ldquo;<em style="font-size: 12px;">l&rsquo;hu</em>-&rdquo; sound. &nbsp;It kept coming out as&nbsp;&ldquo;<em style="font-size: 12px;">l&rsquo;amour</em>.&rdquo;</span></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><span><span class="full-image-block ssNonEditable"><span><img src="http://www.parisplay.com/storage/Combo 7 of 9.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1452219062100" alt="" /></span></span><br /></span></p>
<p><span>Richard showed us all a fresh photo on the rear screen of his Nikon, of Combo, with his long lashes and dreamy eyes. And I thought, Isn&rsquo;t that perfect, a mother who can hypnotize, and a son with dreamy eyes.&nbsp;</span></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><span class="full-image-block ssNonEditable"><span><img src="http://www.parisplay.com/storage/Combo 9 of 9.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1452219135623" alt="" /></span></span>&nbsp;</p>
<p><span><br /></span></p>]]></description><wfw:commentRss>http://www.parisplay.com/journal/rss-comments-entry-35578500.xml</wfw:commentRss></item><item><title>The Pont of Proposals</title><category>Paris Life</category><category>Pont Alexandre III</category><category>love</category><category>marriage</category><dc:creator>Kaaren Kitchell &amp;amp; Richard Beban</dc:creator><pubDate>Wed, 21 Oct 2015 18:16:37 +0000</pubDate><link>http://www.parisplay.com/journal/2015/10/21/the-pont-of-proposals.html</link><guid isPermaLink="false">807002:9471938:35511800</guid><description><![CDATA[<p><!-- AddThis Button BEGIN --></p>
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<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>Here I sit at a high table in a glass-windowed boat on the Seine, facing the Pont Alexandre III about a half block away, that iconic bridge with gold to the right, gold to the left, gold in the center, four winged horses. Old-timey lamps, tridents with globes on each point. The bridge makes a gentle arch over the gray-green waters that never stop moving, trembling between shadow and light.</p>
<p>"Monday, Monday, got me crying all the time" plays on the boat's sound system. On the bridge, black-clad figures, a few in red. A bus with Paris les Cars Rouges passes.</p>
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<p><span class="full-image-block ssNonEditable"><span><img src="http://www.parisplay.com/storage/Pont Alex -4.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1445457207264" alt="" /></span></span></p>
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<p>I'm watching, waiting for the horse-drawn carriage. There it is! It stops half-way across the bridge. Two figures, one I know, help the couple step down from the carriage. Blondie sings "One way or another I'm going to get you, I'm going to getchu getchu getchu." The horse tosses its head.</p>
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<p><span class="full-image-block ssNonEditable"><span><img src="http://www.parisplay.com/storage/Pont Alex -7.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1445457238873" alt="" /></span></span></p>
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<p>I see the couple now side by side at the edge of the bridge, gazing east, a figure dancing around them. It's Richard, hired by a Paris company to record the moment one partner pops the question, an assignment he does in various romantic spots.</p>
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<p><span class="full-image-block ssNonEditable"><span><img src="http://www.parisplay.com/storage/Pont Alex -10.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1445457292981" alt="" /></span></span></p>
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<p><em>Has anyone ever said no?</em> I've asked. <em>Not yet</em>, Richard said.</p>
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<p><span class="full-image-block ssNonEditable"><span><img src="http://www.parisplay.com/storage/Pont Alex -11.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1445457352345" alt="" /></span></span></p>
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<p>Now I see them settling back into the carriage. I imagine Richard is capturing this moment, too. My phone rings: <em>The horse arrived on time, and the woman said yes. It's a good day when that happens</em>.</p>
<p>I go to meet him on the bridge. We're still saying yes.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><span class="full-image-block ssNonEditable"><span><img src="http://www.parisplay.com/storage/Pont Alex -9.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1445457392224" alt="" /></span></span>&nbsp;</p>
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<p>&nbsp;</p>]]></description><wfw:commentRss>http://www.parisplay.com/journal/rss-comments-entry-35511800.xml</wfw:commentRss></item><item><title>Sunday, August 23, 2015</title><category>Paris</category><category>Paris Life</category><category>Place des Voges</category><dc:creator>Kaaren Kitchell &amp;amp; Richard Beban</dc:creator><pubDate>Mon, 24 Aug 2015 17:10:27 +0000</pubDate><link>http://www.parisplay.com/journal/2015/8/24/sunday-august-23-2015.html</link><guid isPermaLink="false">807002:9471938:35452049</guid><description><![CDATA[<p><span style="font-size: 12px;"><strong><!-- AddThis Button BEGIN --> </strong></span></p>
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<p><span style="font-size: 12px;">&nbsp;</span></p>
<p><span>Louis XIII on a horse. Smokey sky above salmon and ochre bricks.</span></p>
<p><span>We circumambulate the Place des Vosges, find a wooden bench to pause</span></p>
<p><span>and drink it in: a cloud of swallows wheels above summer-lush lindens,<br /></span></p>
<p><span>fountain plash, a bee above our heads, a feather falling between us.</span></p>
<p><span>&nbsp;</span></p>
<p><span>Yesterday, one of those days when nothing goes right.</span></p>
<p><span>Today: sweet talk and galettes at <em>Cr&ecirc;perie Suzette</em>, and now this perfect moment.</span></p>
<p><span>Walking home, we see the dark falling above the carrousel and zinc roofs&nbsp;</span></p>
<p><span>at St. Paul. At 9 pm? Already? Fall is on its way.</span></p>
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<p>&nbsp;</p>]]></description><wfw:commentRss>http://www.parisplay.com/journal/rss-comments-entry-35452049.xml</wfw:commentRss></item><item><title>Twins</title><category>Castor &amp; Pollux</category><category>Greek myth</category><category>Marley</category><category>Paris Life</category><category>cats</category><category>family</category><dc:creator>Kaaren Kitchell &amp;amp; Richard Beban</dc:creator><pubDate>Sat, 15 Aug 2015 19:35:34 +0000</pubDate><link>http://www.parisplay.com/journal/2015/8/15/twins.html</link><guid isPermaLink="false">807002:9471938:35444587</guid><description><![CDATA[<p><!-- AddThis Button BEGIN --></p>
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<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><span class="full-image-block ssNonEditable"><img src="http://www.parisplay.com/storage/Cats Take Two-1.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1439668336454" alt="" /></span></p>
<p><span>My birthday gift from Richard this year was to be a cat. But on May 27 (in Gemini), no cat had appeared, despite our extensive search.</span></p>
<p><span> </span></p>
<p><span>We didn&rsquo;t know that the next day (May 28, still Gemini) two brothers were born in a family of five.</span></p>
<p><span> </span></p>
<p><span> </span></p>
<p><span> </span></p>
<p>We didn't know how we would ever replace our affectionate, talkative Turkish Angora, <a href="http://parisplay.squarespace.com/journal/2013/7/6/adieu-to-the-lion.html">Marley</a>, who had moved with us to Paris.</p>
<p><span> </span></p>
<p><span> </span></p>
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<p><span>We didn&rsquo;t know that a Turkish Angoran mother was nursing five kittens as we searched.</span></p>
<p><span> </span></p>
<p><span> </span></p>
<p><span> </span></p>
<p><span>We didn&rsquo;t know that ten weeks later, we&rsquo;d board a train to the town of Boissy-St-L&eacute;ger, half an hour south of Paris.</span></p>
<p><span> </span></p>
<p><span> </span></p>
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<p><span>We didn&rsquo;t know that two of the five brothers were so bonded that we couldn&rsquo;t adopt one without the other.</span></p>
<p><span> </span></p>
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<p><span>We didn&rsquo;t know we&rsquo;d board the train back to Paris with two kittens not yet named.</span></p>
<p><span> </span></p>
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<p><span>We didn&rsquo;t know for a week what their names were.</span></p>
<p><span> </span></p>
<p><span> </span></p>
<p><span> </span></p>
<p><span>We watched as they boxed and galloped around the kitchen and foyer, and thought of the Dioscuri, Castor and Pollux, of Greek myth.</span></p>
<p><span> </span></p>
<p><span> </span></p>
<p><span> </span></p>
<p><span>These twins, a tamer of horses and a boxer, were so close that they were later placed in the sky by Zeus as the constellation Gemini.</span></p>
<p><span> </span></p>
<p><span> </span></p>
<p><span> </span></p>
<p><span>What else could we call them but Castor and Pollux?</span></p>
<p><span> </span></p>
<p><span>&nbsp;</span></p>
<p><img src="http://www.parisplay.com/storage/Blog Last Photo-1.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1439668369078" alt="" /></p>
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<p>&nbsp;</p>]]></description><wfw:commentRss>http://www.parisplay.com/journal/rss-comments-entry-35444587.xml</wfw:commentRss></item><item><title>A Night of Accessibility</title><category>Haussmann</category><category>Jaccede</category><category>Louis XIV</category><category>Napoleon III</category><category>Paris Life</category><category>disabilities</category><category>human rights</category><category>photographers</category><dc:creator>Kaaren Kitchell &amp;amp; Richard Beban</dc:creator><pubDate>Mon, 15 Jun 2015 18:16:16 +0000</pubDate><link>http://www.parisplay.com/journal/2015/6/15/a-night-of-accessibility.html</link><guid isPermaLink="false">807002:9471938:35375846</guid><description><![CDATA[<p><!-- AddThis Button BEGIN --></p>
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<p><span>Whether your goal is to have the romantic time of your life, or to gorge yourself silly, or just to wander and discover tiny streets and massive monuments, most of the world agrees (tourists vote with their feet and currency) that Paris is THE destination. While the early kings named Henri gave that idea some traction in the 1500s, Louis XIV started showcasing the place as a world metropolis in 1670 when he ordered the defensive city walls torn down and the Grands Boulevards built on top of them.</span></p>
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<div>More walls went up later, for tax collection purposes, but the impetus to create the Paris of today really took off under Napoleon III, Napoleon I&rsquo;s nephew, who came back from exile in 1848 with a grand plan in his back pocket, and a willing Prefect of the Seine, Georges Haussmann, to hammer out the details. It&rsquo;s their Paris of boulevards and monuments that people think of as modern Paris.<br /><br />&nbsp;</div>
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<div><br /><br />But this isn&rsquo;t a history lesson, it&rsquo;s merely preface to say that Paris is an OLD city.</div>
<div><br />And old cities are tough to retrofit for modern needs. Like those of the disabled. Those tiny, romantic sidewalk caf&eacute;s with tables barely bigger than the average American's girth, narrow walkways between tables, and Turkish toilets in the underground caves, are useless to people in wheelchairs. And cobblestone streets that can barely be navigated in heels probably PUT people on crutches.<br /><br />&nbsp;</div>
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<div><br />Even the M&eacute;tro, one of the best in the world, first opened in 1900, long before the advent of disabled access, though the old wooden trains used to have seats set aside for the wounded of both wars. But how, one wonders, did they get into the station? Only the newer stations and lines have anything close to adequate elevators, escalators, and train access.</div>
<div><br />Paris Play had the privilege Saturday of working with a group of photographers from the Paris Photography <a href="http://www.meetup.com/photo-68/">Meetup</a> Group to document the yearly gathering at Place Stalingrad of&nbsp;<a href="http://www.jaccede.com/en/">Jaccede.com</a>, a group that works to spotlight and lobby for disabled people to gain the same kind of access that most of us take for granted.<br /><br />&nbsp;</div>
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<div><br /><br />Jaccede isn&rsquo;t about demonstrations or agitation; it creates a survey of the town and offers an app that tells disabled Parisians (and visitors) which shops, M&eacute;tro stations, restaurants, streets, etc., are most easily used by people with various kinds of disabilities, from the wheelchair-bound to the blind.<br /><br />&nbsp;</div>
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<div><br /><br />The night is also a social gathering of the disabled in large numbers, for dancing, playing, partying, hanging out with volunteer jugglers, tightrope walkers and clowns, and serves as a gentle reminder to the able-bodied who cut through the Place Stalingrad to enjoy a leisurely stroll along the beautiful Basin Villette that Paris is everybody&rsquo;s city.<br /><br />&nbsp;</div>
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<div><br /><br />Some memories of that night below, and a celebration of some of the citizens that we might sometimes overlook.&nbsp;<br /><br />&nbsp;</div>
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<p>&nbsp;</p>]]></description><wfw:commentRss>http://www.parisplay.com/journal/rss-comments-entry-35375846.xml</wfw:commentRss></item><item><title>What Fresh Hell Is This?</title><category>French culture</category><category>Marley</category><category>Paris Life</category><category>Parisians</category><category>cats</category><dc:creator>Kaaren Kitchell &amp;amp; Richard Beban</dc:creator><pubDate>Mon, 01 Jun 2015 19:28:07 +0000</pubDate><link>http://www.parisplay.com/journal/2015/6/1/what-fresh-hell-is-this.html</link><guid isPermaLink="false">807002:9471938:35361348</guid><description><![CDATA[<p><strong><!-- AddThis Button BEGIN --> </strong></p>
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<p><strong><span class="full-image-block ssNonEditable"><img src="http://www.parisplay.com/storage/Cat from Hell-10.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1433191481674" alt="" /></span>&nbsp;</strong></p>
<p>Yes, he said, yes, he said yes!</p>
<p>We were at dinner at Anahuacalli, our favorite Mexican restaurant in Paris, and he asked me what I wanted for my birthday this year.&nbsp;</p>
<p>A cat! I said.</p>
<p>Okay.</p>
<p>Seriously? You mean it?</p>
<p>Sure. If that&rsquo;s what you really want. It's your birthday.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><span class="full-image-block ssNonEditable"><img src="http://www.parisplay.com/storage/Cat from Hell-9.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1433191569439" alt="" /></span></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>We&rsquo;ve been having a certain dialogue for two years, since <a href="http://parisplay.squarespace.com/journal/2013/7/6/adieu-to-the-lion.html">Marley</a> died in July 2013. Still grieving, we both agreed that no cat could ever replace our white and gold wedding cake cat. But then I started yearning for, not a replacement, but a Marley brother or sister.</p>
<p>But we want to travel, Richard said, that's one reason we're in Europe. Although&hellip; if a cat came to our door the way Marley did in Venice in <a href="http://parisplay.squarespace.com/journal/2011/2/23/marley-goes-to-paris-part-one.html">1997</a> and asked to join this family, I&rsquo;d say yes.</p>
<p>But what cat can wander in through our Paris courtyard, unlock the door to the building and find his way to the fifth floor and knock?</p>
<p>Right, said Richard.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><span class="full-image-block ssNonEditable"><img src="http://www.parisplay.com/storage/Cat from Hell-8.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1433191634683" alt="" /></span></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>We stopped at our veterinarian&rsquo;s on Blvd. Saint-Germain for the first time since that summer, to ask if he knew any cats who needed a home.</p>
<p>Doctor McCarthy (who revealed to us once that he was really a cat) wasn&rsquo;t in, but in the waiting room, a woman in army fatigues with a cocker spaniel suggested we go to the SPA weekend offering at Bastille that weekend, a once-a-year event (by the French equivalent of the SPCA). What timing! What a stroke of luck!&nbsp;</p>
<p>Saturday, we walked over two Seine bridges the twenty minutes to <em style="font-size: 12px;">Place Bastille </em>to find a temporary exhibition hall set up under white tents. The canvas cages, with plexiglas windows, were set cheek-by-jowl on top of rows of tables, the cats hunched inside.&nbsp;From the next room, came a staccato cacophony of dogs. We walked through the rows. The first cat I saw was a white beauty who looked like Marley. But no, we couldn&rsquo;t duplicate him&mdash;why even try?</p>
<p>We looked at tiger-striped and calico cats, and various-colored kitten siblings. But the kittens were all sick with coryza, a common shelter cold that comes from close living with other cats, which can be serious.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><span class="full-image-block ssNonEditable"><img src="http://www.parisplay.com/storage/Cat from Hell-19.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1433191755609" alt="" /></span></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>We chose three cats who appealed to us. But petting them, you could see that they weren&rsquo;t that affectionate. We returned to the white cat. He&rsquo;d been adopted two minutes before. I offered to give the woman adopting my card in case the cat wasn&rsquo;t compatible with a cat she had at home. Oh, no, she said, she would never give up a cat once adopted. <em>Bien s&ucirc;r, </em>neither would we.</p>
<p>We decided to come back earlier the next day, since a new batch of <em>chats et chiens </em><span>was arriving. Sunday morning we felt lazy, didn&rsquo;t want to get out of bed.</span></p>
<p><span><em> </em></span></p>
<p><span>Let&rsquo;s just hop in a cab and go over there and see, Richard said. And so we did. We had a plan. He would start at one end, and I at the other. We each noted a cat that appealed to us, then checked out each other&rsquo;s choice. No, no. Then went back to look at a tortoiseshell female, three years old, a bomb-shell beauty, with black, red and white patches.</span></p>
<p><span><em> </em></span></p>
<p><span>I had the thought that she was like our friend Edith who recently died, who only wore black, red and white. Her papers said she could live in either a <em>pavillon</em> (a house with grounds) or <em>appartement</em>, but advised she needed to be the sole cat in the place, and that we shouldn&rsquo;t have a child or dog.</span></p>
<p><span><em> </em></span></p>
<p><span>I unzipped the cage and cautiously held out my hand. The cat, Jade, came over and lowered her head, asking to be petted. She was sweet and <em>c&acirc;lin</em> as the French say. A cuddler.</span></p>
<p><span>What do you think, Richard?</span></p>
<p><span>He put his hand in her cage and she moseyed over to him for more petting.</span></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><span><img src="http://www.parisplay.com/storage/Cat from Hell-4.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1433191810378" alt="" /></span></p>
<p><span>We asked the woman in the orange vest if we could hold her. Yes, she said, and turned the cage around to unzip and free her. Richard picked her up. She was <em>c&acirc;lin</em>, then balked, and scratched his hand. Natural for a cat caged and surrounded by chaos, we figured.</span></p>
<p><span>We glanced at each other. Yes?</span></p>
<p><span>Yes.</span></p>
<p><span>Signed the ream of French paperwork, showed our identity cards, paid 90 euros, got a certificate that she&rsquo;d been sterilized and received all her shots.</span></p>
<p><span>We stood on the curb and tried to flag a taxi. None stopped, though many were free.&nbsp;A French couple on a nearby bench railed about the rude cab drivers in Paris.&nbsp;</span></p>
<p><span>One finally stopped, but seeing the cat in our carrier, said, Not in the car, in the trunk.</span></p>
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<p><span><img src="http://www.parisplay.com/storage/Cat from Hell-16.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1433191882872" alt="" /></span></p>
<p><span>No, we said, we can&rsquo;t do that to this cat, we just rescued her from prison at<em> la Bastille</em>.</span></p>
<p><span>He relented and as we headed home, told us he adored cats, but was allergic to them, was so sad to have no cat in his life. But if you&rsquo;d told us that, we&rsquo;d have understood, we said.</span></p>
<p><span>At a stoplight, he turned around in his seat to get a closer look at Jade. <em>Oh la la, qu&rsquo;elle est belle!</em> he exclaimed.</span></p>
<p><span>At home, we put out food, water, and lined with a trash bag a temporary litter tray cut from a cardboard box. We&rsquo;d walk the next day to get another litter box at the department store near city hall, having thrown Marley&rsquo;s away. &nbsp;</span></p>
<p><span>We sat at our oak table and watched Jade pad along the edges of the living room, and then every room in the apartment, sniffing, investigating. And then she settled on the couch, looking regal and quite content. We&rsquo;ll let her come to us, we decided. Let her determine when she wants contact.</span></p>
<p><span>&nbsp;</span></p>
<p><span><img src="http://www.parisplay.com/storage/Cat from Hell-1.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1433191920980" alt="" /></span></p>
<p><span>That night, I stretched out on the couch to read <em>All the Light We Cannot See</em>. She approached me gingerly, hopped up and walked across the blanket from my feet to my hand. She butted up against it, looking for affection. I stroked her head, and she <em>ronronnait</em>. (You know what that means.) Then suddenly, no warning from ears or tail or viper mouth, she bit and scratched my hand, hard. It hurt.</span></p>
<p><span>It was probably a sign she&rsquo;d been traumatized with all those dogs and other cats and humans, and being in a cage, and so we&rsquo;d be patient.</span></p>
<p><span>Later that evening, she approached Richard in his office and bowed her head to be petted. Then turned on him and slashed his hand, with no warning.</span></p>
<p><span>&nbsp;</span></p>
<p><span><img src="http://www.parisplay.com/storage/Cat from Hell-5.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1433191992312" alt="" /></span></p>
<p><span>We went to sleep uneasy. Something felt wrong about this creature. She did not speak, only squeaked as if she&rsquo;d never been to meowing school.</span></p>
<p><span>The next day, the scratches and bites were worse. For both of us. We were now on guard when Jade approached. It was the same pattern; ask for affection, then attack without warning.</span></p>
<p><span>That night she bit me so hard that she raised a lemon-sized bump on my right hand that began to turn half-purple. Now I was feeling more than uneasy. I was beginning to be afraid of her. She did the same thing with Richard, biting his finger and drawing a drop of blood.</span></p>
<p><span>&nbsp;</span></p>
<p><span><img src="http://www.parisplay.com/storage/Cat from Hell-12.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1433192044098" alt="" /></span></p>
<p><span>The next morning, she awakened us with a crash. She&rsquo;d knocked a sculpture my sister, Jane, made of a bumble-bee bird from the mantel to the floor. Its wing was damaged at the tip.</span></p>
<p><span>I had a feeling that morning that I&rsquo;ve never had about a cat: hatred. Her eyes were not golden, they were urine-yellow like a goat&rsquo;s. She didn&rsquo;t cover her shit, had never learned to do so. Was clearly a wild cat. My hand hurt, and I was worried about infection. I said to myself, I cannot live with this cat. I will never love this cat. But I&rsquo;m married to a man who lived in and out of foster homes from the age of 12 to 14. To bring a cat back to the SPA, how traumatic for the cat. Unthinkable.</span></p>
<p><span>I had appointments that day, including a visit to my doctor. She examined my hand and said, I&rsquo;m sure it&rsquo;s okay, just bruising. But returning home, I felt a deepening dread of this demon cat and the decision we had to make.</span></p>
<p><span>&nbsp;</span></p>
<p><span><img src="http://www.parisplay.com/storage/Cat from Hell-15.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1433192099829" alt="" /></span></p>
<p><span>Later that night Jade raked Richard&rsquo;s hand so badly the wound looked like a red zipper. He called it his Heidelberg dueling scar.</span></p>
<p><span>With leaden hearts, we made the decision to return her to the pound. Richard made the call. After 13 weeks of study at the Sorbonne, he was able to navigate a phone conversation in French, describe the adoption, the cat behavior, find out where we could take her back that required no car.&nbsp;</span></p>
<p><span>&nbsp;</span></p>
<p><span><img src="http://www.parisplay.com/storage/Cat from Hell-6.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1433192161955" alt="" />Street art &copy; 2013 by JAZ</span></p>
<p><span>And that is how my birthday began: we rounded her up, cornered in the kitchen, hissing (she knew!), lifted her wrapped in a towel to immobilize her razor-sharp claws, got her into Marley&rsquo;s old carrier, and boarded the RER train for an hour ride to the nearest shelter at suburban Gennevilliers.</span></p>
<p><span>The first French woman we spoke to at the shelter was skeptical and thuggish. No, they could not take the cat there because she didn&rsquo;t come from this pound. Richard explained that the central SPA office, hearing that we didn&rsquo;t have a car to drive to the cat&rsquo;s shelter of origin several hours outside of Paris, had given us permission to bring the cat here.&nbsp;</span></p>
<p><span>She shook her head in that French fashion that says, I will find a way to obstruct this, that is why I exist.</span></p>
<p><span>&nbsp;</span></p>
<p><span><img src="http://www.parisplay.com/storage/Cat from Hell-2.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1433192234523" alt="" /></span></p>
<p><span>The second, third, and fourth employees were sympathetic. <em>Oui</em>, they said, they would take her, though it wasn&rsquo;t the center from which she came.&nbsp;</span></p>
<p><span>In our interview, we learned some French as it applies to cats. <em>C&acirc;lin</em>, we knew. <em>Pavillon ou appartement</em>? We&rsquo;d thought it was a rather snobbish way of saying, Certain cats must have estates in Paris, with grounds.</span></p>
<p><span><em>Mais non. Pavillon</em> means: This cat is so wild, so unsuited for living with not just dogs, other cats, and children, but even adults who worship cats. She can only be adopted by humans who have their own private jungle where jaguars can roam.</span></p>
<p><span>&nbsp;</span></p>
<p><span><img src="http://www.parisplay.com/storage/Cat from Hell-3.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1433192312497" alt="" />Street Art &copy; 2014 by Toc Toc</span></p>
<p><span><em>Elle n&rsquo;est pas une &eacute;caille de tortue</em>, this is not a tortoise shell, said one young woman, Morgan, named after the sorceress in the medieval King Arthur&rsquo;s tales. It&rsquo;s a <em>tricolore</em>. They are always female, and they&rsquo;re known for having <em>caract&egrave;re</em>.&nbsp;</span></p>
<p><span><em>Caract&egrave;re</em> translates in French to bitch. (Our cat-whisperer friend, Lisa Fimiani, told us, &ldquo;Male cats are supposedly more friendly&mdash;females can be bitches, however it all comes down to the cat's personality and their interaction with you.&rdquo;)</span></p>
<p><span><em>&Eacute;gratigner</em> means to shred the skin of a human.</span></p>
<p><span><em>Mordu</em> means bitten to the bone.</span></p>
<p><span>They looked at our hands and nodded gravely. This cat cannot live indoors.</span></p>
<p><span>&nbsp;</span></p>
<p><span><img src="http://www.parisplay.com/storage/Cat from Hell-11.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1433192365597" alt="" /></span></p>
<p><span>No, we said, she&rsquo;s the demon cat from hell.</span></p>
<p><span>(We didn&rsquo;t really say that. We know that cats understand everything you say.) We walked away feeling years lighter, and said it to each other.&nbsp;</span></p>
<p><span>&nbsp;</span></p>
<p><span><img src="http://www.parisplay.com/storage/Cat from Hell-18.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1433192442278" alt="" />Street art &copy; 2015 by M. Chat</span></p>
<p><span>* Footnote: A line attributed to American author/critic/poet and wit Dorothy Parker, who is reported to have exclaimed, "What fresh hell is this?" when her train of thought was interrupted by a telephone. She then started using it in place of "hello" when answering the phone or a knock at her door.</span></p>
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<p><span><em> </em></span></p>
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<p><span><em> </em></span></p>
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<p><span><em> </em></span></p>
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<p><span><em> </em></span></p>
<p><span><em>&nbsp;</em></span></p>]]></description><wfw:commentRss>http://www.parisplay.com/journal/rss-comments-entry-35361348.xml</wfw:commentRss></item><item><title>EDITH SOREL: March 13, 1933 - April 11, 2015</title><category>Edith Sorel</category><category>Family and Friends</category><category>Paris</category><category>Parisians</category><category>friendship</category><category>storytellers</category><dc:creator>Kaaren Kitchell &amp;amp; Richard Beban</dc:creator><pubDate>Sun, 12 Apr 2015 18:15:27 +0000</pubDate><link>http://www.parisplay.com/journal/2015/4/12/edith-sorel-march-13-1933-april-11-2015.html</link><guid isPermaLink="false">807002:9471938:35303890</guid><description><![CDATA[<p><span class="full-image-block ssNonEditable"><span><img src="http://www.parisplay.com/storage/201404_18__D7000 Edith_069.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1428863003893" alt="" /></span></span></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>We are mourning the death of our friend, Edith Sorel, a marvelous raconteur and journalist whose incredibly prolific professional life spanned the last fifty years of the twentieth century.</p>
<p>She became a personal friend after Paris Play&rsquo;s May 2011&nbsp;<a href="http://parisplay.squarespace.com/journal/2011/5/20/der-himmel-uber-paris.html"><span>report</span></a> on one of her storytelling salons, and we treasure every moment spent since in our apartment or hers, or in various restaurants, just hanging out and talking. She had a wonderfully deep, raspy, scotch-drinking voice, and a knack for distilling her stories into the best character studies of each subject, whether Simone de Beauvoir and Jean-Paul Sartre, or Ingmar Bergman, or Woody Allen, or Henry Miller, or Picasso.</p>
<p>She was born in the 1930&rsquo;s, a Jew in Transylvania, and lived in fear under the Nazi (then Hungarian) terror, with her parents paying off the neighbors (time and again) to avoid being reported. That experience of constant fear, and ostracism, sparked in her a tremendous drive to escape that oppression, and she found that escape through learning six languages, and becoming a translator, including eventually for Fidel Castro and Che Guevara.</p>
<p>We were lucky enough to accompany her to the premiere of a new film about her life just last year, "Dragon Lady," which is in the final stages of post-production and subtitling.</p>
<p>We cannot begin to do her justice here, but wanted to express our grief and love.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
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<div><span class="full-image-block ssNonEditable"><span><img src="http://www.parisplay.com/storage/201404_18__D7000 Edith_013.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1428862984604" alt="" /></span><span class="thumbnail-caption" style="width: 679px;">Edith at the premiere of "Dragon Lady."</span></span></div>
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